Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a global network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their younger generation are reluctant to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to discover these stories and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
